Cook's notes: The shaped meatballs can be covered with plastic and refrigerated several hours ahead of serving time. Fry meatballs and make sauce just before serving.

For meatballs:

2 slices white sandwich bread, crusts discarded, torn into small pieces

1/2 cup buttermilk

1 pound ground meat, preferably 3/4 pound ground chuck and 1/4 pound ground pork

1/4cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

3/4 teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

1 to 1 1/4 cups vegetable oil for frying

For sauce:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil leaves

Salt and ground black pepper

For spaghetti:

1 tablespoon salt

1 pound spaghetti

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• Prepare meatballs: Combine bread and buttermilk in small bowl. Let sit 10 minutes, mashing occasionally with fork, until smooth paste forms.
• Place ground meat, Parmesan cheese, parsley, egg yolk, garlic, salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Add bread-milk mixture and combine until evenly mixed. Shape 3 tablespoons mixture into 11/2-inch-round meatballs. When forming, use light touch. If you compact meatballs too much, they become hard. This recipe makes about 14 meatballs.
• Pour vegetable oil into 10- or 11-inch sauté pan to 1/4-inch depth. Heat on medium-high. Add meatballs in single layer. Fry, turning several times, until nicely browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Regulate heat as needed to keep oil sizzling but not smoking. Transfer to plate lined with paper towels.
• Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot.
• For sauce: Discard oil in pan, but leave behind any browned bits. On medium to medium-high heat, add olive oil and garlic. Cook about 30 seconds, or until garlic is golden. Add tomatoes; bring to simmer and cook until sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Stir in basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Add meatballs and simmer, turning occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Keep warm over low heat.
• Meanwhile, add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta to boiling water. Cook until al dente, drain and return to pot. Ladle several large spoonfuls of sauce (without meatballs) over spaghetti and toss until noodles are well-coated. Divide among individual bowls and top each with a little more tomato sauce and 2-3 meatballs. Serve immediately, passing Parmesan cheese separately.

  Yield: 4-6 servings